Walk to Atanga SS

Walk to Atanga SS

Thursday, July 19, 2007

The First of Good-byes

Good-bye

Tuesday afternoon, I was talking to Awere head teacher, Ottober Matthew Obol about ways we could continue the link between American and Gulu when I got back to America. He said a couple of interesting things, one he said we should find a way to get together and talk like family. Tonight, we got together and talked like family. Like a big Catholic family, where the beer and the laughter never subsided. We went to Hotel Roma, so the first time I met Matthew and Nyeko Alfred and the rest of the Awere teachers was at Hotel Roma, and we would also begin to say our good-byes there. Matthew had told me that when he found out Chris, an American who had worked for IC was leaving a week ago, he immediately hopped on his bicycle and pedaled to the office. He explained tonight that it was an Acholi custom that when guests leave they don’t slip away into the night, there is a celebration and a good-bye. You could still tell that Matthew was disappointed that he did not have a big celebration to say good-bye to Chris. But he was ready tonight.

He first told the waitress that she should take my order first because I was the chief guest. Since last Friday the bishop of Gulu was the chief guest and even though Matthew said his comment with humor, I was still touched. Eventually, we decided that ladies should go first. Trisha took a long time ordering and deciding between a lime fanta or a Fresca (which I don’t really think they have), I think she thought she could get a lime Fresca which intrigued her. Matthew, as she was ordering, stated more than once she could order any type of beverage. I knew then that in order to honor my friend Matthew, I would have to order a beer. The sacrifices I have had to make in this country!!!!! Matthew then turned it over to his Director of Studies. The Director of Studies, a young man who is always smiling and always welcoming then proceeded to list how tonight’s program would be run. He had an entire schedule of speeches and presentations written down, although there was only 14 of us. Oliki George talked first and welcomed every group of people, like we were welcoming dignitaries at a state dinner. It is kind of nice the formality that the Ugandans bring to many of the simplest of things, it is a vestige of their British Colonialism I think, but it is still a nice and polite way to do things. One of the Americans was scheduled to give a speech, and when that happened the other four pair of eyes looked to me. I hope that I was able to honor and give words to the hard work that Terry, Trisha, Wendy, and Adam have brought to Awere. I hope I represented us well. I relied on some favorite words, and began with the Shel Silverstein poem. If I was in America, I would be googling the poem and making sure of the correct words, but since I am in Africa, my recollection will have to do.

Listen to the Mustn’ts by Shel Silverstein

Listen to the Mustn’ts, Child
Listen to the Don’ts,
Listen to the Shouldn’ts, the Couldn’ts, and the Won’ts
Listen to them all and
Then Listen Closely to Me,
Anything is possible, Child,
Aything Can be.

I tried to tell the Ugandan teachers that no matter how many obstacles had been placed in front of their students. The worst obstacles and hindrances a child could imagine. Their students will still learning, still achieving, still wanting to do the best that they could. There are many people to salute, about the pride in the Awere students, but certainly the dedication and tireless effort of their faculty and their head teacher is a big contributor to their success.

Adam and I were the only men amongst the five teachers and during this ceremony, I think both of us could feel the emotion in the room, and tears welled in our eyes. I do not know about our distaff colleagues, but I think tonight was a special night for all of us. Who knew I could come half way around the world and meet such a good group of friends. I do not know yet, how I will honor Gulu and the people that I have met, but I can assure you that each and every day. I will have them on my person and in my hearts.

A few beverages followed with my four colleagues bringing criticism upon our own King of Beers. I told the Ugandan teachers that when you insult the brewery in my town, it is like a football team, it was like disparaging Manchester United. Immediately, one of the Ugandan teachers asked me what my problem with was Arsenal I quickly backtracked, because as of now, I do not have a dog in that fight.


We would have left an hour sooner, but one of the Colorado women was slow in finishing her beverage, so because of that we got stuck in a rainstorm. We waited out the storm by having a few more beverages, finally when it did not let up. Terry, Wendy, and I started back. It was pouring, we found a boda boda for Terry, but in this busy city it might have been the only one running. Wendy and I walked down the street laughing as we soon soaking wet, and one of my first steps was 18 inches into a huge puddle. We kept walking as I shouted “This is Africa” to a deserted Juba road. Soon after about 100 meters, there was a boda for Wendy. I then walked soaked to the skin, and I do not think I have ever been anywhere where my tie was that wet. It felt like I had 50 lbs. around my neck. Wendy took off into the rain, and I continued walking, soon Terry’s brave boda driver returned and we went motorbiking through the darkness and the rain on a cold Gulu night.

I have never been that happy.

Peace and still drying out,

john

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Bonus---RAINSTORM POST

It started to pour, so I first ducked into the Shell station and had a 500 mL coke, but it would not stop raining. There is a small convenience shop there with Invisible Children's favorite employee Lucy. In the middle of the shop there was a man giving a pedicure to two women. Then I saw a Toyota pick up truck packed to the gills with boxes and gerry cans strapped to the side. On top of the load, sat what looked like an entire village, children, old women, old men, and also on top of the cab, 3 young men. I am not sure I will have any overloaded truck pictures when I get back, because I want to respect the dignity of the people who have to travel this way or walk. But since they were going out in the rain. They just got a big tarp out held it out over all the people and moved on. The young guys up front were holding it so they could somewhat see the road. Another African sight I will not forget.
\
but anyway

It is still raining so I will tell you more news, the American band Fall Out Boy has come to Gulu to shoot a video. Many of the IC staff is working very hard to help film their video at Awer camp. The closest I have come is that I ate dinner once accidentally at the same restaurant, and the other night I helped wash dishes that they would have eaten off of if the shoot had ended on time. Anyway I have to be brief because I am losing minutes, but the band showed up and watch me teach at Awere for five minutes today. I do not know what this film is for, but who knows? The video is for a song with lawyer in the title off the knew album, be watching for it for shots of Northern Uganda

peace

john

A chicken in the classroom

A Chicken in the Classroom

This morning I woke up and it was a cool day in Gulu. I actually slept for a long period of time last night, which is unusual for me in or out of Africa. This morning I had an 8.15 am class with Senior 3C. They are a very alive and energetic class, and they had another great class today. After looking at Senior 3A’s homework, I wanted to make sure I emphasized the points I thought they understood, but it was obvious by their homework that did not happen. The Awere students do not call it homework, it is their exercises, and they put it in an exercise book. Somehow during the day, they get it done, maybe during part of their lunch, because we grade it the same day or it does not seem to get graded.

They are eager for grades and comments and to get their work graded, but the grades are not recorded anywhere and they do not really have grades. Their marks are based really only on their exams and their end of year tests. They have to pass the Senior 3 tests to move on to Senior 4 so the grades also have a wide disparity in age. There is also the fact that some of these students have been abducted or are former child soldiers, so it takes a special kind of courage and dedication to wanting an education to restart school at Senior2 (most equivalent to freshmen level) at the age of 20.

The students are so welcoming and polite in all of their actions, Today I circled the building in a different way because of the mud, and started going to the wrong classroom. Since they can see through the walls, my class was calling for me, “Sir, Sir, over here, Sir!” While the other class was directing me away also. Then another funny thing happened as mid-lesson a chicken wandered into my class, and stood behind a stool. I asked the students to move the stool so I could get a picture, and they answered, “Sir, if we move the stool, the chicken will run under the wall.” So I tried to get a picture of the chicken who wandered into the classroom, but did not. So just like the lizard, you will have to take this on faith. I have a new friend in the village of Oliyo I Long which if you remember either means, “Urine in the trousers” or “Man who pees himself”, he is a small boy with no front teeth who has worn the same blue shirt every time I see him. He runs out of one of the shops always says Hi, and often a How are you and cranes his neck in a weird angle to indicate how tall I am. It will be one thing I miss on a fifteen minute walk how many young children greet you, smile at you, and say goodby. It is my favorite form of entertainment. So students if you are reading this and I ask you “How are you?” with the emphasis on the you, please answer “I am fine!” with a very short clipped way of saying fine. I wll think so kindly of you, I will probably award you an A+ for the entire year.

Last night, I took Aliker David Martin to the Acholi Inn, in turn I filmed him talking about the Acholi concept of “mato oput” which translates to “drink the bitter herb” and is an Acholi custom of forgiveness that some want to use to end the war and bring peace. It is interesting that many, many Acholi do not want revenge or retribution to horrible acts of murder, rape, torture, and dismemberment. They simply want to forgive, have peace, and live their life. Amy Colleen Finnegan, the Boston researcher who is a friend of Cathy Modde from the CSC, told me that she believes it is possible that Northern Uganda might be giving the world something special with this new model for peace.


I will write tomorrow, and Friday, and then I do not know about the other days as wer are traveling to Murchison Falls, a game reserve, rafting on the Nile, and leaving
Africa. I will be home shortly and have many pictures and stories to tell.

Peace,

John

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Tuesday Morning at Awere

Tuesday Morning at Awere

I am sad that my friend Nyeko Alfred is not able to be here this week in the classroom. I am proud of him that he is studying hard to make himself a better teacher and make Awere a better school. What it does allow me to do, though, is interact more with the students. This morning I taught Senior 3A about grouping data and finding the mean and the median. And then immediately after, I had to teach Senior 3C, and I taught them line graphs and pie charts. They are a very outgoing class, and this class was fun today. It ended with me trying to pronounce correctly the 60 African names and the whole class giggling a lot. Then a few of them produced cameras and we took several photos. On the way to the market, Terry, Trisha, and I were going to pick up clothes. Thanks to the selfless acts of these two women, some of you are getting better gifts. Because I am quite out of my element when it comes to material and tailoring. Terry has been working tirelessly to knit a pair of socks for her team teacher. She had a pair started then found out Solena did not like blue, so she had to quickly finish that pair before starting another pair with colors that Solena liked. I really enjoyed going to the market with both of them, they are great people and great educators, and I have not gotten enough time on this trip to have just regular conversations with them.

Yesterday was also an interesting day, when it came to my friend Amos. He had been sent home from school because he had not paid his exam fees. I told him to go back to school, and if he was sent home again to meet me at the IC front gate at 1:30 pm. He was not there so that was a good sign, but it meant I had to go to his school by myself. I started down the main road (really a 14 foot width of dirt) he told me. Once again, I saw Isa, I see that kid several times a day it seems like all over town. It is almost like he has a transponder or something tucked in my shoe. I asked him how far to K…. .. School and he said 100 kilometers. I said Isa it can’t be 100 km. Soon he was home, and the road kept getting narrower. I came to a fork in the road, and could not decide after looking down both baths. I finally asked a 10 year old, and he showed me that it was not even one of the forks, but off the road and between huts. He led me for a distance and at least we got a path again, but we were walking deeper and deeper into a village. I tried real hard to keep my sense of direction, but I figured it was 1.30 pm how lost could I get. Soon I lost my guide, but he pointed me down the road. I walked for awhile and asked the next person I saw who pointed me between another 2 traditional round brick huts until I ran into another and he told me to go right around the hut, instead of left. Since the hut is not that big I wondered what the difference would be, but I followed anyway. Now I was mid-village and there were no paths anywhere. Luckily, I found another 10 year old guide, who deftly led me through the maze of huts and all of a sudden I could see a school with bright uniforms and fences and everything else.

Since I did not have an appointment, I asked the guard at the gate, if I could talk to the head teacher. He said the head teacher was not here. I then asked about the deputy, and he said the deputy was not there. I then asked if there was someone who I could talk to get a cel phone number for the head teacher. He directed me to the office of the Senior Woman Teacher. We had a pleasant conversation about Amos, although she told me she could not recognize the boy right away. I told her that I was looking to make arrangements, to pay the students exam fees and get him back in school. She said if I called back I could get the boy’s details and maybe help out in that regard. She also hinted that there were many students with needs and she talked about two orphans she had taken in and the 4th grader was a very bright girl and she also needed school fees. I empathized, but stated that I would have to help Amos first, because he was my friend and I believed he was a bright boy who could accomplish a lot. She gave me her number and said too bad it was lunch or we could find Amos, but he was probably gone. ( Many students in Ugandan schools walk either home or a market or road side stand for food at lunch. So in the middle of the day, there are always all kinds of kids walking back and forth every where. Actually at all times of day, you see school kids walking everywhere.)
I left and asked the guard at the gate if there was a larger road I could take to town, because I knew I could not make it back to familiar surroundings the same way I came. I also would have been unable to match that path again. As I started to walk up the road, I ran into Amos and I quickly hustled him back to the Senior Teachers office. Of course, as she directed me into the chair, Amos knelt at her desk, another custom of Uganadan schools. We were able to figure our that Amos needed an exam fee, monthly exam fees for the third term, and third term fees. I was able to pay them all, so Amos should have no more problem completing P6. Btw, I paid a total of 8,000/=, which equates to about $5. Amazing.

So it is Tuesday afternoon, and I am typing this at home. A couple of nice successes in a row. With two good class sessions this morning and helping Amos a little bit last night. Tonight I am taking Aliker David Martin out to dinner after our last roundtable. I am going to tape him talking a little bit about his experience and also explain “mato oput” on film for the Nerinx students to see. As I walked back through Prison primary, someone was actually in the latrines cleaning them, WOW! I walked a little further and again met Ocen Juma who was grazing 8 cows in the corner of the soccer field. I talked with him again, and he told me that both of his parents had died, and he gets paid by someone else to tend the cattle. So I wonder how this child eats, where he sleeps, etc.
But then I talked to an old man on a bicycle who was in town for his son who was at Lacor Hospital. As we talked he pointed to the Gulu, and I could see how beautiful it was and how far I could see. So as I wind up my time in Gulu and Africa, I am going to believe that the sun is shining, there is so much beauty and kindness to see, and I believe things can get much better for the Acholi, whether they be the best students in Senior 3C or Ocen Juma tending cattle in a soccer field for just a few shillings a day.

Peace,

john

Monday, July 16, 2007

Now What?????

Now What?

I am meeting today with the Head Teacher at Kusami Army Primary School. My intent is to figure out why my young friend Orach Amos keeps getting sent home from school. It has something to do with fees not paid. It is my desire and goal to make sure that Amos does not miss any more days of school in P-6 or P-7 due to fees. I am trying to get a holder of the school supply company in Kampala to but 180 good math notebooks for my Senior 3 students. I am at least considering that there may be an opportunity for me to accompany some Nerinx students to Africa next year. Where would they stay, what would the cost be, and how are they not just tourists? I am considering figuring out ways to bring students to visit Nerinx for a couple of weeks. Again what is the cost, how do I do it?

I guess all of my thoughts are how do I keep the friendship and warmth I feel from the Acholi people and students and how do I continue either helping them or just as important letting them help me become a better person. I really feel after this year in Biloxi we have a model and a tradition that can continue another 10 or 12 years down the road. Where the community of Nerinx helps and is helped by the people of the Back Bay. So how do I get a model started for a Gulu-St. Louis or Awere-Nerinx connection?
And why stop at Nerinx how do I take all that I have learned here, and come up with a presentation that I can take to Cor Jesu and SLUH and Loyola, and St. Raphael’s etc.

Here is where I need your prayers, I think all of this is possible. I think we can end world hunger and extreme poverty by the year 2025. The poople here all want to do better, they all want to do more. They are a friendly and industrious people. How do we find jobs, and industry, and permanent solutions like Micro Loans to help each person get started in a business or a risk they would like to take. But please continue to pray for the people of Northern Uganda, and also pray that I can find real concrete ways to help them. Not superficial things that make me feel good, but concrete steps to make their lives better and their education freer of so so many obstacles.

There are so many Wa nuu (the plural of mu nuu) who want to help and besides the easily adaptable problems of no real western food, not as many showers, and pit latrines, many Westerners have come here and adapted quite nicely. It can be done, and Invisible Children is now taking dramatic steps in turning over many of the important jobs to the Ugandan people.

I would like to end this now with the Acholi words for this can happen or the future will be our success. That would have been really cool, but I don’t know that much Lwo so imagine if you will those words with Lwo resonance.

This is my last Monday in Gulu so this incredible experience is winding down almost too quickly.

Peace,

John

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Mass at Gulu High

Mass at Gulu High

My colleague, Phil Kelly, who is now probably sitting on a stream somewhere in Idaho, told me that he had gone to a Catholic Mass at Gulu High, and I really should go. Phil is not Catholic, but he told me he found the service to be wonderful. Well, Phil thanks, thanks. It waas one of the most amazing experiences of the trip. I walked the 15 minutes to Gulu High, only once having to ask directions, and that was just because I thought I was running late or perhaps forgot I was on Africa time. When I got there, I soon spied several students standing around a class room. Many of the boys that live there were taking advantage of the bright sun, and washing their sheets and drying them on the lawn. But I figured this classroom, must be the one for Mass, I peaked my head in and saw an all student congregation, sitting in the desks still in line from the classroom. The students were on my left, and the choir was singing on my right. As is often the custom in Gulu, a student soon got out of his chair, and another student politely and graciously directed me to his chair. I turns out I was not late for Mass and listened to the choir practice, and the church was filled for choir practice. When the priest showed up 15 minutes later, you could tell that the students were excited. Phil told me that the priest is not always available and sometimes if he does not show, they just have a service with readings and songs. I cannot tell you how proud I was as a Catholic, that this overcrowded room of students was excited to see a priest and excited about Mass. Erin and Elise and all other Cor Jesu students this is the school and the students you have shared with this year!

Mass began and the altar boys and girls looked fantastic. The altar boys were in one piece bright green print surpluses with wonderful embroidery and craftsmanship, one each sided they had an embroidered cross. The girls were in a yellow or orange surplus with a single cross embroidered in front. The songs throughout the mass (they have about twelve, were incredible, and although the Mass and sermon were in English many of the songs were in Lwo. I looked up at the song list which was written on the class backboard, it was comforting to see H2CO3, H2SO4 and H2O still on the chalkboard left over from a previous chemistry class. They did not erase the whole board, just enough to write which songs they would be singing for each part.

The students were ready and participating at each part. It was also interesting to know that there, since this is a boarding school, were students participating in various activities outside. These students did not go to Mass because someone told them they had to; they were there because they wanted to be there. The gospel was about the Good Samaritan, which is really interesting in a region that has been deeply devastated by war in a continent where sometimes differences in people often lead to armed conflict. It was also interesting that in a region of the world that really needs peace. The student prayed the entire sign of peace part together out loud with the priest. I thought about how much this prayer and its significance actually means to these students.

` The priest gave a wonderful sermon. He talked about the woman who went to the well to fill two buckets and one was a good bucket and held water, but the other bucket had a leak and by the time she got home, it would only be half full. She asked the Lord what she should do, and soon planted flowers on the way back from the well. Thereafter, as the one bucket would leak it would water the flowers. People soon commented about how beautiful the path to her house was.

The second story was about a teacher who asked a student when they knew that the night had given way to the morning. The student replied that is was when he could telll the difference between a sheep and a dog in the distance. Another student said it was when he could tell a fig tree from a palm tree. The teacher told them you both have failed. The night gives way to the morning when you see a stranger and you greet him as a friend.

So with a few hundred students around me, I was humbled, and in their voices their faith, and their song. I noticed that the night had turned to day, and the sun was shining magnificently on all the students of Gulu High.

Peace,

john

Saturday, July 14, 2007

Thanksgiving Day at Awere

Thanksgiving Day at Awere

I walked into Awere and right on the concrete, I saw two of the workmen hacking at something with wood axes. I then realized what they were attacking with a vengeance was half of a cow. Today was going to be a day of celebration and feasting, and apparently I was looking at dinner. I then just stayed out of the way. Alfred says the Acholi have a saying, “Don’t let the visitor carry the luggage.” So as opposed to home where I am always grabbing chairs and moving them. I think I might be insulting the students and staff at Awere by helping myself. Alfred always calls to a student who runs and gets me a chair if I don’t have one. Also, when the students come and ask for a teacher’s help they either curtesy or bow lower than the seated teacher until they are told to take a seat or stand up.
So I could not help set anything up, as the students and prisoners from Gulu prison, assembled two large tents. All of the boy fit into each other, but each joint was secured by lashing. I remember I loved lashing in boy scouts, and I think every Ugandan knows how to lash. So I watched as they assembled the tents. It was a good thing too, because we were all under the tents from about 10.30 am until 3.45 pm. It was a pretty amazing program.

The Anglican bishop came in a parade to the school, up the back dirt road where he was led to the school by dancers. The boys were all in shorts and fake leopard skins, the girls were in the traditional dance costumes. As the crowd moved toward the tents, I was able to have my photo taken with the dancers. They also showed me how to play the whistle that they had made from a horn of animal.

We then sat down and had a church service with the bishop. He was very warm and engaging and gave a good sermon for young students. They had a confirmation class of 20 that was confirmed and had a great choir who seemed to add a song whenever the bishop wanted to hear one. We then heard many speeches, including some great ones by the Head Boy, Head Student Prefect, and the incoming Student Prefect. The prefects are responsible for a lot of the discipline at school and in the dorms and it was really nice to hear students talk about discipline and what was needed to be a good student.

We had lunch where I ate the beef I saw earlier, it was the best beef I have had in Africa. Although, it was a very formal dinner with lace on the tables. We had to eat with what Komakech called “our tribal fork” aka our hands.

We then saw more dancing, a student written play about finding Jesus, a student written play about a girl who responds to peer pressure, gets pregnant and dies having an abortion. As silly as this sounds there were many comedic moments in both usually supplied by the student playing the witch doctor. It ended with students lip syncing and half performing music.

Today we drove 3 hours so we could see the site where Awere is going to be when they go back. Remember they are only in Gulu due to the war, and actually are much further north. I have so much more to tell you, but we just got back on Saturday and I am going to have to rush in to town to get this published.


peace

john